Apoquindo Waterfall

Yesterday our group of five completed an 11-mile hike to the Apoquindo waterfall, a lengthy trek that took us through dusty paths, up and down ridges to the 90-foot high waterfall.

The plan was to meet at 9:45 am at the Principe de Gales (Prince of Wales) metro stop, and I was rustled out of bed at what I thought was 8:10 by Julia, who lives a few doors down.  After some confusion and a quick packing of the bag we were on our way, fortunate that the 1-hour time change in some countries didn't affect my hike.  We arrived at the metro stop and met up with our friends Sven, Ester and Stef and waited for Gerlinde, who, after a few phone calls, would miss the hike altogether because of the problems with the time change. (Chile will change it's clocks in late April)

A 20-minute walk along the road, uphill, past high walls and private neighborhoods in the La Reina sector of the city led us to the entrance to the park, where we paid our $1.500 ($3USD) entrance and talked with the park rangers -- who warned us that it was 4 hours to the waterfall and 3 hours to return, which would put our return very close to the 6:30 park closing.  After one recommended that we plan to turn around at the viewpoint, an hour before the waterfall, we all looked at each other and quietly decided to move quickly to make it to the end of the trail.

The hike started with a very steep climb (muy empinada....or "empanada" as some of us like to joke), underneath some huge electrical wires and towers, with Santiago and it's smokey air getting smaller behind us.  Once past these non-natural sights we only had cactus, vegetation, streams and a few animals to enjoy.

The sky was incredibly blue as we continued further, jumping over a raging stream and climbing once again to the mirador (viewpoint).  Good jokes were had as Sven and I threw small sticks at the girls and blamed it on each other, and as Ester and I tried out our accuracy with a grape toss.

Finally the waterfall was within our reach and after a quick dip into the valley and back out again we were greeted by the cold water misting off the rocks.  We sat under a small tree and ate lunch, using a small branch to scoop peanut butter out of its jar. We pumped ourselves up for the hike back, fantasizing about the Escudo beers and pizza we would have at the Fabrica de Pizza on Pio Nono -- only a 6-mile hike, 20-minute walk and 20-minute bus ride lay ahead of us.

We hurried back, with only a few mishaps as Stef and her poor shoes caused a few falls on the dusty trails along the way.  After a 5-minute snooze at the park entrance we walked and then bussed it to Pio Nono where we shared some of the best-tasting Escudos of our lives.

Santiago growing small behind us.

Cactus and dry vegetation all around us.

A cow!

Just *barely* didn't make it!

We could see the waterfall off in the distance.

Dropping into the canyon, just before the waterfall.

Paradise!

Peanut butter on a stick.

Tired but still goofy.

Sven, the young one in our group, with plenty of energy on the way back.

A quick jump over the stream and we're on our way.

A 4-5 person limit.

The dog situation in Chile

One of the first things people notice about Santiago is that there are dogs just about everywhere - sleeping in the grass, sleeping on the sidewalk, chasing taxis, barking at bicyclists.  It's a normal part of the culture to see dogs around, and they almost become like your own dog -- you see certain dogs around certain street corners, and more often than not they are very friendly and happy.


Some of the people take care of the dogs, leaving food out for them, making little shelters for them or giving them jacket-blankets in the winter.  In the evenings it's a common sight to see dogs with their heads in the trash, digging around for something to eat.

My favorite dog is the black and white one that the neighbors below us own.  I've gotten into the habit of calling all the dogs in Santiago "little buddy," but this black and white dog is the true "little buddy" and it's always nice to see him when I come home.

A very happy dog near the Presidential offices.

Suntanning dogs.

Maybe not the most comfortable spot.

Dogs sleeping in the La Vega market.

It's the norm for people to just walk around the dogs.

Not a bad spot to sleep.

THE little buddy.  My favorite dog in Santiago, just below our apartment.

Sleeping in the shade.

Snow in Santiago

It rained today, no big deal.  Around noon the rain changed to snow for a bit, a rare occassion for Santiago.  The snow didn't last too long, and it was definitely not the white, light, pretty stuff we get in Ohio.

I didn't plan for it and was soaked to the bone in the morning.

The day after the protest

On the morning after the protest I took a bikeride around the town to look at the destruction.  The day was grey and cold, yet the activity in the city, with businessmen and women walking out from the subway and people walking to their jobs like usual.  Broken glass and trash could be seen throughout the city, and a taste of tear gas was still in the air.

One of the news stories was how one of the large department stores burned for a few hours last night.  Seeing as how laPolar was recently caught in a large credit card scandal that affected thousands of Chilenos, not too many people were bothered by that destruction (although in the end we'll all pay for it from the insurance coverage, I'm sure). 

Pile of broken glass, trash and stones in the park.

Broken bus stop advertisement.

About a dozen of these in the park.

Signs of students who perished in the battle with police (just kidding!).

Street dogs recovering from who knows what from the last night.

Trash and debris from the burnt laPolar store.

laPolar department store which burned during the night.  Not too many Santiaguinos shed a tear, as laPolar was recently caught in an Enron-like scandal.

"They believed that without the march there isn't a protest? Now Hinzpeter suffers." Regarding the government official not authorizing the protest and declaring it unlawful.

Broken window near Cerro Santa Lucia.  I passed by as one of the protesters destroyed this window at about 9:30 pm.  A hush landed over the crowd at the time of the destruction, which were followed by agressive cheers.

Random destruction.

Student Protests, Gov't Response, Tear Gas & the Banging of Pans

The smell and burn of teargas was in the air today.  For months Chilean students have been protesting against the dire state of the educational system -- poor quality, poor funding, incredibly expensive university education that functions more like a "negocio" (a business) than for education. 

In the morning the governmental buildings around La Moneda (the presidential palace) were on guard and ready to shut their doors to keep out any protesters.  Padded and armed police officers (Carabineros) could be found on every city block.

Twice I had to change direction on my bike, to find a new way home from the centro.  The teargas in the air, which forces your face scrunch up, makes your mouth, saliva and the pores on your skin burn, was too strong. 

In the afternoon I had to cancel a meeting, because I couldn't get to the metro due to the movement.  I figured there would be a problem when a 17 year old asked me where the Salvador metro stop was, the metro that I was going to use.  From across the Mapocho river, which runs through the city, I had a clear view of thousands of students and a handful of police trucks spewing teargas and shooting their high-pressure water cannons, and could hear the "pop-pop" of rubber bullets to disarm the crowds.  The re-directed traffic moved at a snail's pace around the action.

In the evening I went out on my bike to *cough-cough* to buy some work materials.  I had a can of tear gas shot at my feet and high-tailed it out of there, dodging crowds of students and professionals making their way home from the city center.  I ate a sandwich at my favorite sandwich place as traffic and people built up in the street outside.  The crowd destroyed a window and created a fire from the plastic barricades in the street.  I got the hell out of there when the spotlight from the helicopter shone on the crowd and a dozen police officers on dirtbikes approached the action. 

As darkness continued to fall on the city crowds of students could be seen gathering on city blocks, and even right outside my apartment.  At around 9:30 you could hear the "Cacerolazo" from the streets, the tradition (from the 80's dictatorship) of banging pots and pans in the streets in support of governmental change.

Packs of armored policemen ("Carabineros"), dressed like GI Joe, protecting the downtown.

The Carabineros up close.

Students recovering from the tear gas.

This street is normally very busy during the day.

Large police-truck getting into position.

"Water cannon, fire!" I've heard that the liquid they shoot has some kind of chemical in it to further deter protesters.

Students after just crossing the bridge to avoid the mayhem.

Students in the park.  Note the tear gas cloud.

Students in the park.  Their running away from the police trucks.  A few seconds after this photo this scene was disrupted by large police trucks, billows of tear gas and the "pop-pop" sound of what I beleive are rubber bullets.

Huge group of students in the park across the river.  You can see the plume of tear gas in the distance.

A stampede of students running away from the police trucks and tear gas. I was trying to cross this bridge and was caught in the commotion; an exciting yet frightening experience.

Girls biting on lemons to help combat the tear gas.

Re-directed traffic outside my building.  Usually we might have 10 cars pass each minute at this time of day.

Joel, the server at my favorite restaurant, watching the door and keeping out protesters.

The scene outside the restaurant door.  About 6 busses were stopped by protesters and had to back up and find a new way out. Notice the tear gas at the end of the street.

Deserted, trash-ridden streets.

Flags and signs supporting change to the educational system.

Flames begin.

My roommate, Rulo, (and me) banging pots with our neighbors to support the movement.

People in the streets banging their pots in support (photo from El Mercurio).